Our hosts had recommended that we visit a castle — she called it a fortified farmhouse — that’s just down the road from Montrozier: Château de Bertholène. Not knowing about the Day of Ascension—nothing can be closed on a Thursday!—we waited outside the castle and walked around looking at the scenery until 2:30 pm in the hopes of spotting a living museum representative. Maybe they were at lunch?

Finally I spotted an officious looking woman, who shouted “non!” in an extremely unpleasant manner. It was the first time anyone had been rude to me this trip. C’est la vie.